Tuesday, November 15, 2005

Khurram Husain

Khurram Husain is an academic at Lahore University of Management Sciences in Lahore. He also heads the adventure/outdoor group at LUMS.

Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 13:21:20 +0500

Dear Friends,

We have just returned from our second trip to the village of Surul in Bagh district, Kashmir. This is to bring you up on what we have found from our work in the field so far.

Surul suffered 100 percent destruction during the quake. Not a single structure was left standing or without substantial damage. Thevillage covers a large area from the mountaintops to the road below. Mountain villages tend to be far more spread out than villages in theplains, which are clustered close together. The population of the village is reported between 3000-3500, with 1800 registered voters. The average household size is between 8-10 members and there were a reported 300 houses in the village according to 1998 census data,corroborated by the locals. There were 3 primary schools in the village, all destroyed. A lot of families have grazing fields high upon the slopes where they move during summer time with their livestock, and agricultural plots of less than 3 acres where they arrive byAugust for the harvest. The main crop is corn, harvested in August,dried on rooftops, and ground into a fine flour for winter storage.

We had planned a modest distribution exercise for about 50 families in the village, funded from private donations sent in by friends andrelatives. Combined with other amounts donated we managed a budget of Rs376,000 for this activity alone. More money is currently in thepipeline, including the sums that many of you have donated.

With these resources, we were able to accumulate supplies far in excess of what we had originally planned, including flour, lentils,cooking oil, salt, and tents. We also received donated blankets,bedding, and warm clothing for women and children in quantities sufficient to provide for 100 families.

We arrived in Surul the evening of Friday, November 4th, whichhappened to be Eid day. We set up our campsite on the grounds of thepeople we had made contact with on our previous visit. Our team consisted of 16 people (including 3 women): 3 doctors to staff and run the clinic, 5 mountaineers to conduct door-to-door assessments, andmiscellaneous volunteers to staff and run the distribution point.

On the morning of the 5th, our assessment team left with notepads anda walkie talkie to assess the households on the slopes above. Theystarted from the most remote houses and worked their way down theslope. The medical team opened the clinic, and the rest of us arranged and inventoried all the relief goods for distribution.

Within an hour or so, people started arriving with chits issued by ourassessment team and relief items were issued to them according to whatwas stated on the chits. Food rations and tents were in high demand. Soon groups of women began arriving, upon hearing the news that thereare women at the distribution point. Distribution tends to be alargely male affair, so it was good to have women on our team. Men seem primarily interested in marketable items such as tents, whereas the women were more in tune with the domestic needs of theirhouseholds, and asked for blankets, warm clothing for their children,and food. Wherever women showed up for collection, we decided to allocate additional items since one could be very sure that relief items issued to women will go directly to the needs of the family,whereas with men one was unsure whether the items will be sold on themarket. Women also showed a greater tendency to share with neighbors and relatives in need whereas men tended to think primarily of themselves. One of the great successes of our trip, in fact, was theextent to which we were able to reach out to the women of the village.

At one point, I took a small walk up the slope with the villagers. Their hospitality and manners were unscathed by their circumstances,and everywhere I went offers of tea and biscuits were in abundancefrom people living in shelters stitched from flour sacks. It was virtually impossible to turn these offers down. I was showed the rubble of house after house and the stories that went with each pileof rubble. "Here is where my brother was buried for six hours, thisis the hole we dug to pull him out." "This is where my mother and 3 children were crushed, they were in the kitchen at the time."

I was taken to a shed atop a hill. The tin roof was still intact and standing on 6 wooden beams, while the walls had all fallen in. Theplace was strewn with rubble and rocks. On the day of the earthquake,the houses all collapsed within a matter of seconds. Following thecollapse, landslides began from the mountain slopes above us and huge boulders rained down on the village, destroying whatever was left and crushing everyone in their path. Landslides of mud, gravel and rockfalls made the area treacherous for those who were not buried underthe rubble. Some ran to their houses to pull out family members. Others ran to the school to look for their children. All day, rescue and excavations were carried out with bare hands, amidst the rockfalls and landslides constantly thundering down the slopes.

At night the rains began. Many of those surviving were severelywounded, with multiple compound fractures. As darkness fell, the rain turned to hail and in their desperation for shelter, the rescueefforts had to be abandoned. The only structure which could provide any shelter was the shed I was standing in. Close to 400 peoplehuddled underneath its roof, standing only on 6 beams, while hailstorms lashed the darkness all around them.

And then the aftershocks started.

They told me of how the earth began to shake once again, and the roofof the shed began to wobble. For a long time, they said, it seemed like the shed was going to collapse on top of the 400 people huddled beneath it. Amongst them were the severely wounded, and at least 4dead bodies. Someone from amRichter scaleongst them started to pray out loud, andthen everybody joined in. They sat there all night, praying in desperate unison for the shed to hold, with hailstorms all around them, and the earth shaking beneath them. Over 900 aftershocks havebeen recorded since the earthquake, some of them measuring 5.6 andabove on the Richter scale.

I ended my tour of the devastation over a cup of tea and biscuits with a nearby family and walked back down to the distribution point. Morepeople had showed up to collect their relief items. Our team was busy up on the slopes above. Outside the tent clinic, a large crowd hadgathered, children with bandages on their arms, legs, heads. Ourmedical team was busy vaccinating anyone who had not received atetanus shot yet. Children cried and threw tantrums before their injections, to the amusement of the adults standing around, but were quickly cheered up afterward by juice and candy as reward for theirbravery. We had an excellent medical team -- sensitive, professional,dedicated.

In all, we distributed enough relief supplies to provide shelter, rations, and medical aid for over 100 households over two days. Onthe evening of November 6th, we packed up our campsite and loaded our trucks for the journey back. Our hosts showed up to bid us farewell."It's sad to see you all leave, we wish we could have given you morehospitality." It was futile to explain to them that we had not come to enjoy their hospitality, but to fulfill our obligations. Evenafter all they had been through, their culture, manners and basicnorms of civilized conduct were intact.

It's incredible to think that there are hundreds of thousands of such stories strewn across the villages of this mountainous region. In every village of every valley, in the towns and cities, one hearsstories of the most incredible tests of human endurance. Onecolleague, on a visit to a hospital in Muzaffarabad, saw an old man desperately pleading with doctors to not amputate his 7 year old son's leg. "You cut off my other son's leg yesterday, please spare thisone, how will I make it through life with two disabled sons?" The doctors insisted there was no other way, the gangrene would spread to the entire body otherwise, and carted the boy off to the surgical ward.

Another friend, who is a correspondent for BBC, writes in a personal email:

"A 78-year-old blind man - holding on to his ageing wife climbing 5300-ft up a hill from his village, descending5300-ft on the other side, getting two bottles of water (with his wifegetting a kilo of sugar and five packets of biscuits), climbing 5300-ft back to the top of the hill, descending the same distance to get back to his village. All for the only survivor in his family - afive year old child who is left in the care of a neighbour all thistime. This couple will do the same routine every second day till the snow cuts off their only topsy turvy and at places exceedingly dangerous route to life. After that, all they can do is wait to die."

The stories of survival and endurance are in their tens of thousands. On our way up we passed a truck full to the brim with prosthetic limbs. The papers speak of an entire generation that has been wipedout with the collapse of schools and colleges. UNICEF confirms thathalf of the 84,000 plus casualties as per the official numbers are schoolchildren and college going kids. The scale of the disaster is difficult to comprehend. In Surul, they pointed me towards a bluetarpaulin high up on a mountain slope, visible only as a dot. "Wepulled out 16 dead bodies from the rubble of that house." Surul alone suffered between 200-250 dead. The last of these bodies was excavatedon the last day of our visit. And the winter has only just begun.

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